Cuts and settings for gems and diamonds have changed as much in the history of antique jewelry as the political and social landscape of the centuries has. Well into the early 19th century all antique diamonds were hand cut and polished. Technology and the machines capable of near perfection were not yet available. Thus, antique diamonds are known for the fact that each one is slightly different in shape and, often, facet size and shape. Only in recent generations have we sought out diamonds with perfect facet structures and shapes possible only by means of our modern equipment and technology. Yet, antique diamonds often possess brilliance, life and character with which no modern diamond can compare.

Antique diamond cuts, like the vagaries of fashion, have gone through periods of great change. Different centuries and eras favored different cuts of diamonds and of gems. Also, as tools and knowledge evolved, so too did the cuts of diamonds. Diamonds and gems are polished or faceted to bring out the natural color and refraction within each stone. Minimizing flaws or reducing the less than ideal qualities of a stone is also an important factor in shaping a gem. Prior to colored gemstones being faceted, most were cut en cabochon (a rounded convex top and flat bottom). We see cabochons in antiquity well through the Renaissance and many gemstones today are still cut in this fashion.

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The desire for gemstones dates several years back through time. In the earlier times gemstones were found in areas of decay. They have always been considered a romantic gesture when received as a gift.

The price of a gemstone is determined by the size, cut, quality, and type. How the stone is treated should be questioned. One treatment is called irradiation. This is a process used to bring out the color of the stone and remove any imperfections. A dealer who knows their business will know the treatment used. If they do not, they are not being up front with you. This would be a flag to act with caution when making a sale with them.

Gemstones that often use the irradiation treatment on are: Aquamarine, London Blue Topaz, Emerald, and Diamond. The next treatment used is heat treatment. This also brings out the good colors in gemstones. This type of treatment is often used on: Amethyst, Aquamarine, Ruby, Tanzanite, and Topaz.

The most popular treatment used is the dyeing of the stones. Watch for dye that gathers in the cracks of the transparent stones. This should not be visible to you. You can determine if there is dye on a piece if it rubs off or appears as a white patch on the piece. It is common for Lapis and Rose Quartz to be dyed. Black Onyx is permanently dyed in the processing.

In closing, a few other good tips to follow when you are shopping for your gemstones: Consider buying beads with a little larger hole. This will enable you to use better stringing material. Try to get beads that are common in size and shape. This will help you to make a nice piece of jewelry. Another thing to look for are chips and cracks in the beads. This may look neat visually, but does not indicate good quality.